Add criterion integration for benchmarks

[elasticdog]

There is a bit of ugliness to allow passing arguments through to criterion without issues, in that we must explicitly put bench = false in all of the Cargo.toml files for the crates in the workspace. It's something that is being looked at upstream.

See:

• https://github.com/bheisler/criterion.rs
• https://bheisler.github.io/criterion.rs/book/faq.html#cargo-bench-gives-unrecognized-option-errors-for-valid-command-line-options
• libtest Shouldn't Panic On Unexpected Command-line Arg rust-lang/rust#47241

Checklist

• Ran cargo xtask fixup for formatting and linting
• Modified all relevant documentation
• Updated CHANGELOG.md per "Keep a Changelog" format
• Added tests covering any code changes

[elasticdog]

Looks like we're hitting a known error when Nextest uses --all-targets and tries to run the criterion-based benchmarks. The issue has been fixed upstream, but not yet released. Maybe I'll sit on this PR for a bit, as it seems like things are close.

bheisler/criterion.rs#602

[elasticdog]

What do you know, they released 0.5.0 the next day. I'll circle back to this in a bit, but with how many things criterion pulls in, it should be an optional dependency hidden behind a feature flag.